I was recently in New York city. I took a sightseeing tour that included a cruise of the New York harbour. I was sitting near a lady from New Jersey and she told me even though she lived nearby, she had never taken a harbour tour. I replied, "I have lived in eastern Canada most of my life and only took my first sail on the Bluenose II in July."
Other than blinking her eyes a couple of times, I didn't see a bit recognition to what I had just said. To confirm my suspicion I asked, "Have you heard of the Bluenose?" She shook her head pinching her lips together and she said, "No, but I've only sailed with Princess Cruises."
I must have checked out for a few moments trying not to be insulted while I figured out whether to educate her or not. Growing up a Canadian from the province of Nova Scotia, it never occurred to me that someone wouldn't recognize the Bluenose because she is on the Canadian 10 cent coin.
Canadian 10 cent coin. The Bluenose
By the time I was ready with my response, we had begun to exiting the boat and I'd lost my audience. Because of that encounter, I've include a little back story.
The Bluenose II is an ambassador for Nova Scotia and a Canadian sailing legend, as recognizable to me as the Statue of Liberty is to Americans.
The original Bluenose was a working fishing schooner on the Grand Banks. She was the fastest schooner of her time, winning her first race, the International Fisherman's Cup, on October 23, 1921. She won the cup four times, garnering the nickname Queen of the North Atlantic. She was wrecked off Haiti in 1946.
Bluenose II was launched July 24, 1963. An exact replica of her famous predecessor, she was commissioned by the Oland family of Halifax, and later sold to the province of Nova Scotia for $1. She is a goodwill ambassador for the province. She does not race, she has nothing to prove nor any desire to mess with the achievements of her namesake. The beautiful blue-hulled wooden schooner happily sails to numerous ports throughout the summer months and her deck is open to the public. The lucky few that reserve a spot and get fair weather can go aboard for a two-hour sail. That is exactly what I did.
After the Extreme Rain Event of the previous day, my 1:30 pm sailing on the 22nd was cancelled. To say I was disappointed would be an understatement. I'd booked the cruise back in February hoping to coincide with her 60th birthday, which was completely booked up, so I'd taken the first available spot after that, wich was now canceled.
I asked again if they had any openings on the 23rd but I was told "no, sorry we are fully booked." But while I was in the Bluenose Company Store, I heard whispers that even some Bluenose staff couldn't get into town after the storm, because flooding and wash outs had made the roads impassable. Calls began coming in from ticket holders who were stuck in Halifax and were unlikely to make their 9 am sailing the next morning. Their misfortune was a benefit to me, as I was already in town ready to take their place.
July 23rd, I arrived early at the restaurant where my server was the lady I'd meet at the pub during the rainstorm. While she led me to outdoor veranda we had a giggle about the wee headache we had from drinking the 20 ounce beers at Shipwright Brewing Company the previous day. She put the cutlery on the table and I took my seat facing out towards the Bluenose. I waved off the menu but gratefully accepted a cup of coffee and said, "I just want toast." She nodded and recommended the stone ground bread. "It's milled locally." "Yes, thank you that sounds great." She departed to put my order into the kitchen, while I sipped by brew. After eating I still had plenty of time but I settled my bill and headed down the to the dock. When I got there the crew had already removed the tarps covering the deck. They busied themselves with last minute preparations. Unable to sit on the benches because they were still wet, I walked the dock and read the the national historic plaque dedications on the wharf.
Plaque states:The Bluenose "Queen of the North Atlantic fishing fleet ", was a schooner of 285 tons. Designed by William J Roue of Halifax and built by Smith and Rhuland at Lunenburg. Launched in 1921 she won the Herald Trophy emblematic of the sailing championship of the international fishing fleet. Never defeated in her native waters, she successfully defended her championship in 1922, 1923, 1931, and 1938, becoming a symbol of national pride. After receiving renown as a working schooner, the Bluenose was wrecked and lost off Haiti in 1946.
After a safety briefing we lined up to show our boarding passes. I walked up the short gangplank onto the wooden deck feeling giddy as a child. We were instructed to take a seat along the port side and when everyone was on board, the ropes were released and we motored out of the harbour.
Boarding pass for Bluenose
About 15 minutes later the crew went to work putting up the sails. The main sails are automated, I didn't realize the other sails had to be put up manually. Once again in awe at the fitness of the staff hanging off the ropes pulling the sails up.
Once we under way I walked around the deck taking pictures and greeting the staff.
Me on deck of the Bluenose
I asked one the crew members about her career on board. It was her second season. She said a percentage of the staff return for a second and sometimes they come back for a third term. Previous seasons' staff help train up the new staff. There are 18 crew members who rotate shifts.
"You must love this lifestyle?" I said with a smile. She gives me a wide smile and a nod, then told me about sailing around the top of Cape Breton. "It was the prettiest place I've ever sailed." I told her it was my home and "my favourite place too. "
At the stern of the boat is a cordoned off area. Here captain Phil Watson had his eyes to the horizon. I had silently hoped for an opportunity to talk to him, but I just couldn't bring myself to distract him.
Captain Watson and first officer( unknown )
I approach another staff member and asked about the previous day's storm. She tells me "We actually went out for the 9am sail but the first flash of lightening we headed back in."
I am glad I wasn't booked on that one. I would have missed out on a gorgeous sail. Then I inquired if there was any plans for the 60th birthday event the next day. I was told, "Probably, but I don't know the details."
I went up to the very front. At the foremast there is a crewman standing watch and I speak to him "Any chance you could take my photo?" As soon it was out of my mouth I realize my error and try to withdraw my request but he already says, "Sorry, I'm on watch." "Yes, yes, of course I'm sorry to disturb you," I say while backing away. I took a quick video then returned to take a seat and watch the sails billow against the breeze. We made a wide turn and headed back to Lunenburg.
Pausing once again to bring the sails down. Again the crew lined up to pull and fold the sails as they came down. It dawned on me it maybe a honour working on the Bluenose but you earn your keep. It's a physical job, putting up and taking down the sails twice a day.
The hatch to the galley opens and the aroma of corn wafts up. "Corn chowder for lunch" one of the staff said patting his stomach in anticipation of a good meal. Indeed they have earned it.
We coasted gently up beside the wharf. A round of applause was given for the captain, crew and the Bluenose herself. I sit back letting everyone depart, wanting to prolong my stay. I ask one of the crew members if they have a tip jar. " No, but..." he points to a box by the bell. "..you can make a donation to the Bluenose." I deposit my donation, thanking each of the staff as I leave. An other excellent memory for me to cherish.
No gifts or discounts were received for this post. It is my own experience. If you would like to take a sail on the Bluenose you can find information at the link below. Happy travels from Maritimemac.
https://bluenose2store.com
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