On the afternoon of our third day in Antarctica, it was finally time for the moment we'd been anticipating for years - the first dipping of our kayak paddles into Antarctic waters! Our sea kayaking group had met several times for briefings and gear checks, but we'd been stymied until now in our efforts to actually get out on the water. But finally, the weather and ocean conditions were good enough that the sea kayak guides, YT and Jess, decided that we could go out. YAY!
The Yalour Islands were scheduled to be a zodiac cruise only, so there was no shore landing. So as all of our fellow passengers lined up to board their zodiacs, we zipped each other into dry suits and neoprene booties, shimmied into kayak skirts, and clambered into Big Bertha, an oversized zodiac that was piled with paddles and dragging about a dozen or so sea kayaks, ducky-style, behind it. Mark, our zodiac driver, motored us out to a secluded spot where YT - the lead guide - decided it was calm enough to launch.
I'm not sure what my fellow kayakers were most nervous about, but for me the biggest worry was this - launching from the zodiac. I have launched kayaks in all different ways - from beaches, docks, and knee deep water - but the idea of a zodiac launch was nerve-wracking. I was picturing a graceless tumble over the huge inflated pontoon, ending at best in an unattractive slide into the kayak cockpit and at worst in a capsized boat, an embarrassing splash, and me in the water with one or more of my new friends. Fortunately - none of that happened, and launching from the zodiac was easier and quicker than I feared.
And before we knew it, we were all launched, bobbing gently in the rolling waves, and waiting to set off on our first sea kayaking adventure!
I'm planning a Q&A post for later in this series, and I'll explain more about the mechanics of the sea kayaking experience then - so just briefly, for now, sea kayaking is an add-on adventure for most Antarctic tour companies (including ours). We paid extra for the experience and the idea was that we would kayak as much as possible on the voyage, going out whenever weather and ocean conditions permitted. Kayaking replaced zodiac cruising but we'd still have shore landings - we would just unload our kayaks at Big Bertha and zodiac to shore, then catch whatever zodiac we could to head back to the ship after a landing. On days like this one, where no shore landing was planned, we'd kayak the entire time.
I could immediately tell that kayaking in Antarctica was going to be like nothing I had ever experienced. We paddled through brash ice and past towering glacier walls and icebergs. (Giving the icebergs a wide berth, because as YT explained, if one decided to roll over while we were paddling past: "Death. Death. Death. Death. Human crushers." Got it.) And almost right away, we experienced another of the amazing experiences kayaking in Antarctica brings: close-up wildlife encounters.
We spotted a crabeater seal hauled out and enjoying a nap on a little slab of pancake ice. In our almost silent kayaks, we glided up to the closest spot where we could watch and still be safe and respectful of international wildlife viewing laws. The seal didn't seem to notice us or care about our presence at all.
This paddle was one of the most fun experiences of my life - that's not hyperbole, that's true. Between the sparkling brash ice (such fun to paddle; it was like kayaking in a giant slushee), the amazing scenery, the napping crabeater seal... it was just totally different, unique, and such, such fun.
Little known to us, this was just the first of eight kayaking adventures on this trip - the most of any voyage all season. We were truly blessed in the weather and ocean conditions. So - plenty more paddling pictures to come!
Next week: we go through the Lemaire Channel again, because why not? But this time, there's SUNSHINE! Check in with me then...
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